Stephen Test Chardonnay 2007
Sangiacomo Vineyards Carneros
Ripeness, extracted fruit, ample oak and uncommonly fine structure are the hallmarks of this big, but surprisingly well-balanced wine, and , while subtlety is not among its strengths, it is a very deep and full-flavored effort that commands attention. Unlike so many of its similarly flamboyant cousins, it promises to age quite well, and, if it offers lots to like in the near term, it will only get better with age. $35.